We all know that food and cultural identity is closely tied – there’s something poetic about cuisine serving as both a form of sustenance and an expression of a people, their heritage and values. South Africa has no shortage of this richness and how it’s represented in our food.
In the spirit of Heritage Month, we visited Seven Colours Eatery, ideally situated in the urban park close to V&A Waterfront and the CBD. The closest parking is Battery Park for easy access. This restaurant is run by the charming Chef Nolukhanyo Dube-Cele, whose aim it was to recreate the ‘seven colours’ Sunday plate mealtime experience of so many South African homes.
Located alongside the canal, Seven Colours is a favourite among locals and tourists, its bright yellow branding beckoning you to a delightful experience. We were greeted by friendly staff and live music, authentic South African sounds wafting through the space, which made us feel right at home and adding perfectly to the ambience.
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The menu is inspired by the chef’s upbringing in the Eastern Cape and includes an array of dishes with a lovely mix of flavours that can only be found in SA. We were welcomed by Chef Nolu herself, and her commitment to the history and quality of the dishes is unmistakeable as she took us through the menu explaining each dish.
Delicious starters were served including breaded deep-fried umfino (maize cooked with cabbage and leafy greens), as well as amagwinya and amarostile with a Cape Malay-inspired filling. Some of the mains included dishes such as hard-body chicken (umleqwa), a delectably creamy cheesy baked samp, fall-off-the-bone braised oxtail stew, and home-made chakalaka. It was paired with sides such as pickled beetroot, coleslaw, steamed bread, and my favourite – a plant-based sorghum grain salad.
It became clear that the objective was not just to represent South African food but to elevate it in creative ways. The meal was also presented in a way that encouraged sharing and serving each other, an experience that evoked nostalgia and a beautiful sense of community.
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There’s a distinct intentionality behind every element of this establishment, from the traditional South African decor to the logo – the chef is literally the face of the brand – to the range of beverages. The home-brewed ginger beer (gemere) infused with lemon is an absolute must! If you like a tipple, Nolu has made sure to collaborate with local African women and brands, providing her with the perfect range of drinks including beer, wine, gin and rum. I recommend the Tolokazi Beer, a brand named after its founder’s Xhosa clan name, honouring African brew-making.
If you want traditional South African food at affordable prices, this eatery is the ideal go-to. Go hungry and leave sated, but also with a lingering sense of heritage, pride and joy.